COLLABORATION ANALYSISInternational Luxury Distribution

DNA• Phoebe Philo is the DNA.• “The brand's history wasn't

relevant to me, I like the fact the name means nothing any more. It will be whatever I make it for the time I’m here”.

• Innovation, timeless and experimental.

Phoebe Philo

DNA• No archives or history on the

website. Any past evidence was destroyed. Any evidenced history starts once Philo commenced work for the label.

• Phoebe started in 2008.

“Maison” tab on website displays a contemporary video of 16 Rue Vivienne, Paris, the headquarters for Celine. The building is portrayed as empty in the video, echoing Philo’s minimalistic and contemporary approach.My theory is the “empty look” of the Paris headquarters doubles as a subliminal message, as Philo has moved the headquarters to London.

The House’s aesthetic is clean, elegant and comfortable with a point of view

that’s disciplined but eased.

CODES• Minimal, colour blocking, leather, no

logo approach, understated femininity, functional clothes, focus on tailoring and fabric.

Permanent Collection• Crombie coat, collarless masculine

shirt, perfectly cut pair of trousers, “Cabas" and “Trapeze" iconic bags.

DISTRIBUTION MODEL• Céline trades in 4 product categories;

ready to wear, leather, accessories and shoes.

• Distributed via DOS, (Directly Operated Stores), Store in Store retailers in high end department stores, such as Printemps, Le Bon Marche, Galeries Lafayette and private high end multi-band retailers (wholesale).

• Retail presence; 100 own branded stores worldwide.

LICENCINGCéline carries one, multi-year licensing deal with Safilo Group, who is a worldwide leader in the premium eyewear sector. They produce and distribute their sunglasses worldwide. Céline sunglasses are only available in selected boutiques and Céline stores.

DISTRIBUTION• Distribution is targeted, “we are not really

multiplying presence in cities but we want to open some relevant stores in important cities, keeping the distribution tight” said Marco Gobbetti CEO.

• The brand strategy focuses on organic development of sales and performance per square metre in most of its points of sale, which could lay the strong foundation of its expansion in the future (Sacha & Conti). Céline has expanded its retail network notably in the US and China and have stepped up boutique renovation worldwide.

NO ECOMMERCECéline rejects online selling, preferring direct communication with the customer. Gobbetti wants the customer to visit the store and believes you need to feel and touch the product, and most importantly try the product on.

**If you try and find the brand on a department store site a box pops up telling you that it is only available in store.

COLLABORATIONS

• Philo is a private and creative woman that prefers her collections to speak for themselves, so it is of no surprise her choice of collaborators only mirror her values and vision for the brand.

• Philo’s Céline has triumphed on a refusal to play the fashion game choosing art collaborations, rather than participating in the design worlds social media circus.

• Art and fashion have always been inexorably linked, and impressive things happen when the two creative minds of artist and fashion designer share a congruent ethos and understanding of the brands vision.

COLLABORATIONS

• This presentation explores two significant and recent collaborations between Philo and artist.

• The first is with artist FOS and the second collaboration is with artist Sabine Marcellis.

• The collaborations were so successful Philo incorporated them throughout Céline retail stores worldwide, and her runway collection at fashion week.

FOS• Thomas Poulsen aka FOS is a

contemporary Danish artist that creates a variety of works from installations to experimental videos.

• FOS has been commissioned by Philo to create installations in Céline stores and headquarters. They collaborated together on store design and fit out.

FOS DNA• His work integrates his interest in

examining how interactions and perceptions are shaped by specific contexts. His works are interventions that exemplify the artist’s idea of “social design”, an artistic framework in which social interaction and communal public experiences are his materials.

CODESOrganic shapes combined with

architecture, emphasis on extraordinary materials.

FOS• FOS and Céline are a natural fit, as

Philo’s collections are the very essence of social design. Social design is design that is mindful of the designer's role and responsibility in society; and the use of the design process to bring about social change.

• Philo‘s objective as a designer is to ensure that “the clothes are the star”, her clothes empower women, they are functional and practical, embody strength and confidence. They are created by a woman for women.

FOS• As his pseudonym suggests, FOS puts a

premium on privacy. Operating behind the scenes, FOS gives his viewers the space to draw their own conclusions. “Everyone is constantly looking at their phones. I prefer to engage with reality”.

• Both FOS and Philo prefer anonymity on the internet. Philo has no social media presence and Céline is one of the few brands not to have embraced e-commerce. FOS, meanwhile, hasn’t updated his website since 2003.

FOS• Philo and FOS created aesthetical

forms through art and design that address the ethnicity in their surroundings,’ FOS says. The forms and shapes of his work address both control and freedom, which reflect Céline’s ethos about design.

FOS STORE DESIGN• Juxtaposing unlikely elements and materials. To encourage exploration instore,

FOS broke up the store into small vignettes: In one corner you see a towering lamp, an elegant wood-and-bronze light fixture anchored in a mound of rough concrete. In another corner there is a monumental terra-cotta planter that introduces a touch of earthiness to the otherwise streamlined setting. Overhead, wire chandeliers illuminate the mixed-marble floor, which, at first glance, looks like planks of exotic wood. The stores are beautifully executed. FOS’s designs provide a rich ecosystem that complements Céline’s rotating collections.

• Philo was so happy with the results, she asked the artist to adapt his concept to Céline retail stores worldwide.

SABINE MARCELLIS• Sabine Marcelis is a Dutch/New Zealand

product designer who has her studio based in Rotterdam, (NL).

• The importance of collaborations are a big part of Sabine’s vision for design, she has undertaken various collaborative efforts with other designers, industry and brands.

• Sabine was asked to create resin display cubes developed and produced for the new Céline store interiors worldwide.

• The cubes represent strength, beauty and functionality.

SABINE MARCELLISDNA

• Sabine strives to create a dialogue between the object and the user. She sees her designs as experiences, not mere static pieces; with functionality at the core complimented through aesthetics, which reflect the essence of Céline perfectly.

CODESUnexpected effects, materials, colour,

layering.

STORES

ANALYSIS • Collaborations should be simple and

easy to understand. • Philo utilises collaborations to

enhance and compliment her designs, and additionally for branding and promotional purposes.

• The collaborations between artists and Céline reinforce brand aesthetics and exclusivity, there is compatibility between both the artists and brand DNA & codes, their values match reaching a mutual endorsement.

CélineMinimal

Private; as a designer Designs are experiences that have functionality and aesthetics as its

core Social DesignEmpoweringInnovationTimeless

Control and Freedom

ArtistsContemporary

Private; as artistsEngage with reality

Create dialogue between object and user

Concept driven Experimentation

FunctionalInnovative

Play with control and freedom

PARTNERSHIP NARRATIVE

WHY FOS & MARCELLIS

• Philo is consistently building the Céline brand, it’s uniqueness and dream factor.

• FOS and Marcellis’ designs compliment Céline, they continue the creative conversation and deliver a coherent statement of innovation, timelessness and experimentation.

BRANDING• Philo utilises collaborations to facilitate story telling which in turn enhances Céline’s brand

exclusivity and refreshes the dream factor to clients. • The Céline brand and retail stores are easily recognisable, which is consistent in building a

brand identity, thus helping her clients understand the language of the brand. • Philo’s branding is Philo herself, she is independent, creative and a visionary. She insists on

doing things her way at Céline ( No ecommerce, no history). Artists live in the same space, they have a vision and believe truly in aesthetics for a purpose, this emulates Céline’s DNA. The collaborations match Philo’s values, and the attention she receives for this kind of publicity is coherent with the exclusivity she insists upon.

PROMOTION• Philo recently collaborated with

FOS on her latest Spring 2016 collection at Fashion Week.

• This collaboration created a huge buzz and offered a new perspective to runway shows and the world of media.

• The collaboration included not only the set design but the entire space and music to the show.

SWOTStrengths

Aesthetically beautifulExudes luxury and brands DNA and codesCollaborations does not dilute the brand

Enhances brand uniqueness Press love Philo’s independence & rebellion against

the status quoBuilds brand identity

Confident and coherent statement

WeaknessesEsoteric collaborationDoesn’t build clienteleOr seek new customerCould be seen as elitist

Doesn’t offer a brand extensionPreference for privacy from all involved in

collaborations, can make it hard for promotional purposes

OpportunitiesAbility to continue retail design in Céline stores

worldwideContinues to build brand identity and

familiarity worldwideBuild momentum in the press due to her

eccentric ways

ThreatsNot having ecommerce in a world where technology is key may hinder the brand

Disregard for working with other fashion brands could exclude Philo from finding new clientele,

whilst decreases chances for expansion Exclusivity of the label

Style easily recognisable, can be counterfeited

IMPACT OF COLLABORATIONS• Creating a new heritage and story for Céline.• Building the brands, identity exclusivity and

new modern image.• Sets Céline apart in terms of design and brand

uniqueness. • Exudes Luxury.• Collaborations fits perfectly with ethos of

Céline and feel of store, promoting a pleasant environment for clientele to buy, and staff to sell Céline products.

• Offers differentiation to Céline as a brand in a competitive luxury space.

• Made impact on the art world, high society and press.

CONCLUSIONWas the collaboration a success?

For branding and promotions, yes. It is unlikely a collaboration like this leads directly to sales, and this is not its

objective, however as far as building a brand identity and a cohesive story for her clients, for Philo and artists the collaboration fulfilled what it was set out to do.

CONCLUSIONWhy the collaboration was a success

• Philo does it differently, her tenure at Céline has been shaped by a series of quirky, esoteric associations, this has led to the success of Céline and helped differentiate the brand, bringing worldwide attention and continued ROI.

• Philo’s goal is to “make the product the star”. It was not about lifestyle. It’s about clothes, “no smokescreens”. She has never hired a celebrity to be a brand “ambassador.

• Philo collaborates with artists as they mirror her values and the brands aesthetics. It is a good fit between designer and artists, providing a coherent statement and a style that is easily recognisable.

• The collaboration was initially commissioned for one store and has now become the look of Céline stores worldwide.

• Philo has built a strong and lasting relationship with these artists and continues to work with them exploring new and exciting avenues to create interesting beauty.

RECOMMENDATIONS• It is recommended that Philo and LVMH

continue their expansion of their retail environment worldwide, keeping a consistent store and brand identity.

• I believe going forward e-commerce needs to become part of Céline’s strategy. The world is changing and you cannot ignore it.

• To remain consistent with the brand image, future collaborations with Céline could include a furniture company, textile company, dinnerware and tableware, luggage, hotelier or day spa, nail polish, makeup label, art gallery.

Thank You

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