Post on 24-Feb-2016
description
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAILSModule 28
EDITOR’S NOTE All artificial nail enhancements
products are based on ingredients from the acrylic family
Sub-branch called “methacrylate”Two-part liquid and powder
enhancement systems “Acrylic” – general term for large
group of ingredients
Liquid and powder artificial nail enhancements products based on the methacrylate subcategory
Two-part liquid and powder enhancement system referred to as acrylic (methacrylate) nails
INTRODUCTION Acrylic (methacrylate) nail
enhancements created by combining: monomer liquidpolymer powder
Liquid and powder system
MONOMER “Mono” means “one” “Mer” stands for “units” Monomer is one unit called a
“molecule”
POLYMER “Poly” means “many “Mer” stands for “units” Polymer means “many units” or “many
molecules”
“LIQUID AND POWDER NAIL ENHANCEMENTS” Applied three basic ways
Natural nail as protective overlayOver nail tipSculpted to extend natural nail using a
flexible form Natural hair brush best to apply
productsSable is best
Brush immersed in monomer liquid Natural hair bristles absorb and hold
monomer like a reservoir Tip of brush touched to surface of dry
polymer powder
Monomer absorbs polymer – small bead is formed
Bead is carefully placed on the nail surface and molded into shape with brush
Liquid is usually made from ethyl methacrylate monomerCan contain other monomers used as
customizing additives
Polymer powder is also made ethyl methacrylate monomer
Polymer powder is made using a special chemical reaction called polymerization
ProcessTrillions of monomers linked together to
create long chainsLong chains create tiny beads of polymer
used to create certain types of artificial nails
Special additives blended into both liquid and powderEnsure complete set or cureMaximum durabilityColor stabilityShelf life
Liquid is picked up by brush and mixed with the powderBead forms on the end of brush and
quickly hardensTo happen special additives called
catalysts
CatalystAdditive designed to speed up chemical
reactionsAdded to monomer liquid Used to control the set or curing time
Monomer liquid and polymer powder combined the catalyst helps control the set-up or hardening time
Energizes and activates the initiators Initiators start a chain reaction that
leads to the creation of fantastically long polymer chains
Polymerization process begins the second the liquid in the brush picks up powder from the container and forms a beadDominos
INITIATOR Added to polymer is called benzoyl
peroxide (BPO) Over the counter acne medicineDifferent purpose in nail enhancements
BPO used to start chain reaction that leads to curing (hardening)
Some monomers require more BPO than othersUse polymer powder designed for use with
monomer liquid Using wrong powder can create
enhancements that are not properly cured Could increase risk of client developing
skin sensitivity or irritation
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS USING FORMS Polymer powders
Many colorsBasic pinkWhiteClearNatural
Used alone Customized colors – blended
Shades of pinkMatch or enhance nail bedsBold primariesPastelsWide range of designs and patterns
SUPPLIES FOR ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS Acrylic (methacrylate) nail
enhancements created by combining acrylic (methacrylate) monomer liquid with polymer powder
Acrylic (methacrylate) monomer liquid Here’s a tip pp 753 / 901
MIX RATIO Amount of monomer liquid and
polymer powder used to create a bead “Dry Bead”
Equal amounts of liquid and powder “Wet Bead”
Twice as much liquid as powder “Medium Bead”
50% more liquid than powder Ideal mix ratio
Typically ensures proper set and maximum durability of enhancements
Too much powderBrittlenessdiscoloration
Too little powderWeakRisk developing skin irritation and
sensitivity
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) POLYMER POWDER Choose color depends on methods
used
NAIL DEHYDRATOR Apply liberally to natural nail plate
only Avoid skin contact Remove surface moisture and tiny
amounts of oil Both can block adhesion Here’s a tip pp 753
NAIL PRIMER Acid-based primers (methacrylic acid)
Corrosive to skinPotentially dangerous to eyesNot used much nowadays
“Acid free” and “nonacid” primer developed in wide use todayCaution box pp 754
Read mfg directions Refer to MSDS for safe handling
recommendations and instructions
ACID-BASED PRIMERS Relatively dry brush Using a light dotting action Carefully dab the brush tip to center of
properly prepared nail Primer will spread out and cover nail
plate Avoid product running into skin
Causing burns/injuries Read mfg. suggested use and
precautions
NON-ACID AND ACID-FREE NAIL PRIMERS Slightly damp brush Ensure nail plate is completely covered Avoid too much product
Running onto skin Causing skin irritation/sensitivity
Treat 2 -3 nails before dipping back into container
Read mfg suggested application procedures and precautions
ABRASIVES Medium grit
180 – 240Natural nail prep and shapingSmoothing
Fine grit350 or higherbuffing
3 way bufferCreate shine for no polish
Coarser gritLower gritAvoid usingCan damaged fresh nail enhancement
Acrylics can take 24 – 48 hours till peak strength
NAIL FORMS Placed under free edge Used to extend nail enhancements
beyond fingertip Creates additional strength Extra boxes on PP 902 - 903
NAIL TIPS Pre-formed extensions Wide variety
ShapesStylescolors
NAIL ADHESIVE Cyanoacrylate monomers Each types uses different customized
additives to enhanceSet timesStrengthOther properties
Small size bottleShort shelf life6 months after date of purchaseDepends on storage and usage
Obtain maximum shelf lifeClose cap securelySet uprightStore out of direct sunlightRoom temperature - 60º - 85º
Nail adhesive may harden in tube and need to be thrown away
DAPPEN DISH Poured into special holder
MonomerPolymerSmall narrow openings – minimize
evaporation Do not use open-mouthed jars or
containers with large openings Must be covered with a tightly fitting
lid when not in use
NEVER pour unused portion back into original containercontaminated
Avoid skin contact with monomer to avoid skin sensitivity or irritation
Wipe clean with acetone Store in a dust free location
NAIL BRUSH Sable hair Synthetic/less expensive brushes do
not pick up monomer or do not release liquid properly
Avoid overly large brushes – Hold excessive amount of liquidRisk touching client’s skin with monomerMay increase risk of developing skin
irritation or sensitivities
SAFETY EYEWEAR Protect eyes from flying objects Accidental splashes
DUST MASKS AND PROTECTIVE GLOVES Dust masks
Worn over nose/mouth to prevent inhalation off excessive amounts of dust
Provide NO protection from vapors Gloves
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS PRE-SERVICE Complete pre-service sanitation and
disinfection procedure (ch. 25, pp 672/817)Wash implementsRinse implementsImmerse implementsWash hands with liquid soapRinse and dry implements
Set up standard manicuring table
Greet client and direct to wash hands with liquid soap and warm water
Perform client consultation
APPLICATION OF ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS USING FORMS Pages 757 – 761 FYI pp 762
Pages 912 - 915
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS POST-SERVICE Make another appointment Take-home product recommendation Clean up around table Clean brush Store acrylic products Discard used materials Clean table - clean and disinfect
implements and multiuse tools
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS OVER NAIL TIPS OR NATURAL NAILS Pages 763 – 766 Caution box pp 766
Pages – 908 - 911
MAINTENANCE AND REMOVAL OF ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS Regular maintenance prevents nail
enhancements from lifting or cracking If lifting/breaking greater risk of
infection and other problems Full and proper rebalance must be
performed every 2 – 3 weeks
REBALANCING Method for maintaining the beauty,
durability, and longevity of artificial nail enhancements
Do not let clients go too long without proper rebalance - more repairs
Nail is thinned down –apex of nail removed – entire nail enhancement reduced in thickness
Procedure pages 768 – 769 / 916 - 918Caution box page 769 / 917
CRACK REPAIR Addition of enhancement product to
repair cracks Similar procedure to rebalance Procedures – page 770 / 919 - 920
REMOVAL Perform as soon as possible after
request is made Procedure pp 771 921 - 922 Condition surrounding skin with nail
oil/lotion
ODORLESS ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) PRODUCTS Same chemistry as all other monomer
liquid and polymer powder Instead of using ethyl acrylic
(methacrylate) – rely on monomers with little odor
Must be used with a dry ix ratioEqual parts liquid to powder in bead
If too wet – skin irritation /sensitivity “snowy – appearing” bead on brush Lift brush and tap gently to remove
excess powder
Never rewet the brush with monomer Will dilute the enhancement product
already placed on nail Create wrong mix ratio Odorless harder more slowly Creates tacky layer - “inhibition” layer After hardening – remove using
alcohol, acetone or mfg. product Can be filed away Avoid skin contact
COLORED ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) POWDERS Limited only by your imagination Maintain recipe cards so they can be
reproduced Create customized nail enhancements Pay a few dollars more for the special
service