Post on 01-Apr-2015
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Chapter 15
Scalp Care, Shampooing, and Conditioning
© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
“Ability is what you’re capable of doing. Motivation determines what you do.
Attitude determines how well you do it.”
– Lou Holtz
© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Objectives
• Explain the two most important requirements for
scalp care.
• Describe the benefits of scalp massage.
• Know how to treat scalp and hair that are dry, oily, or dandruff ridden.
• Explain the role of hair brushing to a healthy scalp.
© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
• Discuss the uses and benefits of the various types of shampoo.
• Discuss the uses and benefits of the various types of conditioner.
• Demonstrate the appropriate draping for a basic shampoo and draping for a chemical service.
• Demonstrate the Three-Part Procedure and explain why it is useful.
Objectives (continued)
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Scalp Care and Massage
• The two basic requirements for a healthy scalp are cleanliness and stimulation.
• Treatments should be given with a continuous, even motion that stimulates scalp and relaxes client.
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Scalp Treatments
• Given before shampoo
• Given during shampoo
• Relaxation or treatment: only difference is which products used
• Contraindications: medical conditions that may prohibit the service
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Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment
• Purpose: to maintain scalp and hair in a clean and healthy condition
• Perform treatment only after full hair and scalp examination.
© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment
• Used if natural oil is deficient
• Treatment products: contain moisturizing and emollient ingredients
• Avoid strong soaps, greasy preparations, lotions with high alcohol content. Use a scalp steamer.
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Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment
• Cause: overactive sebaceous glands
• Purpose: to flush out excess sebum through gentle pressing or squeezing
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Antidandruff Treatment
• Cause: a fungus called malassezia
• Purpose: to suppress the growth of malassezia and loosen scalp scales
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Brushing the Hair
• Correct brushing stimulates the blood circulation of the scalp; helps remove dust, dirt, and hair-spray buildup; and gives added shine.
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Hair-Brushing Exceptions
• Avoid before chemical service
• Avoid if scalp is irritated
• Avoid before haircolor procedures
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Hairbrushes
• Natural bristles: most highly recommended to clean and add luster to the hair
• Nylon bristles: shiny, smooth, and more suitable for hairstyling
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Scalp Analysis
• Dry, dehydrated hair
• Thinning of the hair
• Excessive hair in sink
• Dry, tight scalp
• Oily scalp
• Abnormal flaking on scalp
• Open wounds or scalp irritations
• Scalp disorders or disease
• Tick or lice infestation
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Shampoo Selection
• As a professional, you must become skilled at selecting shampoos that support the health of the hair, whether the hair is natural, color-treated, fine and limp, or coarse and wiry.
• Product knowledge is critical (read labels).
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Selection Considerations
• Hair type: dry, oily, normal, chemically treated
• Hair condition: overprocessed, chemically treated, damaged by harsh products or improper care, exposure to elements
• Home maintenance
• pH-balanced shampoos
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Potential Hydrogen (pH)
• The small p represents a quantity.
• The capital H represents the hydrogen ion.
• The amount of hydrogen in a solution is measured on a logarithmic scale ranging from 1 to 14.
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• Acid: 0 to 6.9 pH• Neutral: 7.0 pH• Alkaline: 7.1 to 14 pH• pH-balanced shampoos: 4.5 to 5.5 pH
Potential Hydrogen (pH) (continued)
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The Chemistry of Water
• Purification– Sedimentation– Filtration– Chlorine added– Boiling– Distillation
• Soft water• Hard water
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The Chemistry of Shampoos (continued)
• Water• Surfactant Molecule (surface active agent)
– Hydrophilic end
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– Lipophilic end
The Chemistry of Shampoos (continued)
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Types of Shampoos
• pH-balanced
• Conditioning
• Medicated
• Clarifying
• Balancing
• Dry or powder
• Color-enhancing
• For hairpieces and wigs
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A Great Shampoo Experience
• Massage for client preference.• Adjust water temperature for client choice.• Don’t wet client’s face.• Double-check nape area.• Do not drench towel around neck.• Blot hair, not face.• Give relaxation massage.
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Shampooing and Retailing
• Use the shampoo time to better establish your professional relationship with the client and promote quality products for at-home use.
• During the shampoo give clients information about what you are doing and why.
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Understanding Conditioners
• Deposit protein and moisturizer
• Restore strength and give body
• Protect against breakage
• Types– Rinse-out– Treatment or repair– Leave-in
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Formulation
• Silicone and moisture-binding humectants• Emollients• Synthetic polymers• Proteins
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Other Conditioning Agents
• Spray-on thermal protectors
• Scalp conditioners
• Medicated scalp lotions
• Scalp astringent lotions
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Deep-Conditioning Treatments
• Also known as masks or conditioning packs
• Mixtures of concentrated protein in a heavy cream base of a moisturizer
• Penetrate the cuticle layer
• Used when an equal degree of moisturizing and protein is required
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Draping
• Client must be properly draped for each service.
• Shampoo (wet) draping: two terry towels used, one under cape and one over; replaced with neck strip and cape
• Chemical-service draping: two terry towels used, one under cape and one over, which remain during service
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Three-Part Procedure
• Pre-service: preparation
• Service: practical service on client
• Post-service: caring for client after service and clean-up
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Practical Class
• Pre-Service Procedure• Post-Service Procedure• Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment• Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment• Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment• Antidandruff Treatment
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• Brushing the Hair• Draping for a Shampoo• Draping for a Chemical Service• Basic Shampoo and Conditioning• Scalp Massage
Practical Class (continued)
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Summary and Review
• What are the two most important requirements for scalp care?
• How should scalp and hair that are dry, oily, or with dandruff be treated?
• What are the benefits of scalp massage?
© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
• Why is hair brushing important for maintaining a healthy scalp and hair?
• What shampoo is appropriate for use on dandruff? On product buildup? On damaged hair?
• What is the action of conditioner on hair?
Summary and Review (continued)
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You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.
Congratulations!